- The initial focus is on low-end male underwear. The state-of-the-art facilities and access
to quality yarn means that they can produce higher quality basic male underwear at a
lower cost than the competition, including Hanesbrands (at the low end).
- The cost advantage is passed on to retailers in return for shelf space (the product is
priced on par with other low end brands and retailers pocket the cost difference). A
strategy which seems to work as this has quickly become a $0.5-1.0bn business for
Gildan. Initially retailers simply offered Gildan a bargain bucket at the end of the aisles,
but this is increasingly being converted into real shelf space. And customer feedback on
the product is positive.
- The fact that Gildan has squeezed everyone out of printwear, including Hanes, is scaring
investors. Especially now that Gildan is rumoured to get substantially more shelf space at
Target over the summer.
- Differences between Hanesbrands and Gildan
o Hanesbrands is more focused on returns.
- They don’t want the best plants in the nearest location. Instead they focus on the plants
that will allow them to produce a wide range of products (male and female innerwear) with
varying degrees of quality (they basics at a slightly premium because of the brand name
and higher end at a premium on the back of innovation / higher quality), for different
retailers, in different parts of the world.
- Whilst Gildan is 100% vertically integrated, HBI does most of the production in-house but
not the yarn spinning. They actually exited this a few years ago because it was the lowest
return part of the supply chain (low SD according to them) and because it added
substantially to working capital volatility (the pressure on working capital and gross
margins from the recent winter season weakness would have been double if they still
owned yarn spinning according to management). The global presence and the fact that
high quality yarn is readily available in Asia and Europe is another factor in this. Gildan
has to source from the US as the Honduras trade agreements stipulate this.
o Ultimately Hanes and Gildan have fairly similar margins (20% and 19% Holt Operating Margin
respectively). But HBI’s margin and returns are trending upwards, while Gildan’s margins and
returns are trending downwards. The latter might reverse at some point as they grow into their
new plants. Gildan generates organic growth a few percentage points above Hanes, whilst the
latter generates more top-line and bottom-line growth once you factor in capital deployment. And
ultimately, they both stand out within apparel
- So will Gildan take market share from Hanesbrands?
o Probably a little. Gildan’s consumer proposition of a higher quality product for a private label price
is a strong one. Lower end brands who have not invested for years are probably most at risk,
such as Fruit-of-the-Loom and Jockey. But even Hanes might lose a little market share given that
they are the largest player in male underwear.
o However, this is not a repeat of what happened in printwear. I’m only expecting small losses, for a
number of reasons
- There will always be customers that are willing to try the new cheap product. And given
that Gildan’s quality is better relative to other low end options means that these
customers will probably become repeat customers. But most consumers still shop based
on brand and Gildan is unknown and invests little in marketing.
- Hanes’ basic range might not be as high in quality as Gildan, but it is still good. Definitely
good enough for consumers to provide positive feedback on their purchases and for them
to keep coming back. And their premium range is of better quality than Gildan.
- Retailers will continue to support Hanes because of the brand name and the premium
product range, which both result in price premiums. Even if Gildan offers retailers a higher
profit margin, they can’t compete with the gross dollars earned on the higher priced
Hanes products. That is why any shelf space will likely come from private label brands,
rather than from Hanes or even Fruit-of-the-Loom and Jockey.
- Gildan tried going after the socks market with a higher quality product 10 years ago. The
socks indeed had a higher thread count and were more comfortable, but Gildan failed to
gain real traction because they did not have a brand name. So in 2011 they changed
tactics and acquired Gold Toe. Ultimately I think the right approach for them would be to
buy Jockey or Fruit-of-the-Loom, but apparently they are not for sale.
o And any impact on Hanes’ results should be small
- If Gildan has indeed already gained 7% market share over the past 3 years as they claim,
we should have seen the impact on Hanes’ numbers already. The next 7% will no doubt